NZ wines: Beyond Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc: It's unarguably the wine that has propelled forward the reputation of New Zealand wine on a global scale, taking the exports of Kiwi vino from 19 to 120 million litres in just the past 10 years alone (with plantings of Sauvignon Blanc tripling over that period).
But beyond Sauv Blanc (and to a slightly lesser extent Pinot Noir), there is unquestionably much more to NZ wine, even though it might not always seem that way.
So what are the other wines that Kiwi winemakers finding success with (and where)?
To answer that, the best place to start is Marlborough itself. Marlborough has always been about Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay), yet more recently another variety has found favour in the region.
I'm talking about Pinot Gris, perhaps not all that 'alternate' a variety but one that is proving to be a promising one for the region, as noted by English wine writer Anthony Rose in The Independent "
The Alsace variety that is often innocuous in France can produce wines in New Zealand's climate of spicy fruitiness."
In Marlborough, the planting of Pinot Gris has skyrocketed on the back of this early success, with the amount of Pinot Gris up 22% in 2008/2009 alone, with it now considered to be the variety to sit alongside Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc in the Marlborough heirachy. Beyond just Marlborough, Pinot Gris has found favour elsewhere in New Zealand too, with plantings increasing in Otago and Nelson too.
The main appeal of Pinot Gris is simply about texture and intensity, with the variety offering Chardonnay like richness, yet with the acidity and juicy musky aromas of more floral and aromatic whites such as Riesling.
Some of the top producers of Pinot Gris in New Zealand include Dry River in Martinborough (whom have produced a Pinot Gris for longer than most, although it is almost impossible to source), Villa Maria (their single vineyard Marlborough range in particular), Neudorf (from Nelson), Prophet's Rock (in Otago) and Blackenbrook (from Nelson).
Buy New Zealand Pinot Gris
Beyond Pinot Gris another variety that is striding ahead in the popularity stage is Syrah (or Shiraz in Australian terminology. We're the only ones who call it that you know).
Much like Shiraz in Australia, Syrah will grow just about anywhere, particularly given that - as a mid season ripener - it's viable even in quite cool climates, which has meant that it has been planted all over New Zealand. The hotspots for fine Syrah however are unquestionably centred around two locations: Hawkes Bay and Waiheke Island.
Of these it is Hawkes Bay that is streets ahead in the reputation and popularity stakes, driven by the prominent success of Gimblett Gravels (a small sub region of Hawkes Bay) Syrah in particular, with Waiheke Island only really constrained by how little available land there is for grapegrowing.
What makes New Zealand Syrah unique/special/worthy though is it's medium bodied, peppery savoury style, with the inherently cool climate making for wines that will never be as rich as equivalent Australian styles, but instead are much more of an elegant, quasi-French style (as cliched as the expression is).
Picking the best producers of Syrah in New Zealand is a tricky one, purely due to how many great names there are. From the Gimblett Gravels alone Craggy Range, Trinity Hill, Stonecroft and Villa Maria all produce top wines, and in the larger Hawkes Bay area Bilancia and Te Mata also kick butt.
On Waiheke Island there is a similarly high level of smart producers crafting great Syrah, including Passage Rock, Obsidian, Man of War and Mudbrick, with Kusuda and Dry River from Martinborough also rounding things out.
Buy New Zealand SyrahFinally the last variety that is gaining traction in New Zealand, though somewhat lagging considering it's international profile, is Riesling, with plantings increasing 15% year-on-year. The driver of this popularity resurgence is largely that the niche has been found, with riper or off-dry, Germanic/Alsace inspired styles proving successful.
The hit regions for this richer/off dry style are towards the southern end of New Zealand, with Marlborough, Waipara, Canterbury, Otago and Martinborough all producing top wines.
As for top producers there are a few worth highlighting, including Framingham, Spy Valley (under their 'Envoy' label), Forrest Estate (sweet wines)in Marlborough, Felton Road (sweeter styles) and Mount Difficulty in Central Otago and Pegasus Bay (particularly for the sweet wines) in Canterbury.
Buy New Zealand RieslingAndrew Graham
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