Silky, lacey, fat, heavy, dense, chewy even rustic. – these are descriptions of the textural wine club rather than the usual wine talk of cranberries, wet stones and a partridge in a pear tree. While texture is very much the forgotten dimension in a bottle of wine, with flavour king, the bottles I treasure most have always been sublime textural bliss. Sure the wines have been complex – recently a young 1996 Champagne, bristling with sweet, crisp green apple, brioche and almond aromas while a 2006 Martinborough Pinot noir seductive with a black truffle and red cherry perfume. But it is their texture that takes these wines to the next dimension – the Champagne showing a heavenly mixture of crisp vitality with the creaminess of age just beginning to build while the Pinot Noir was pure French silk and satin.